Both Fish Markets in One Morning, Old and New

Tokyo has two fish markets and most tours pick one. This covers both in four hours, with a licensed guide, which is what makes the comparison possible.

Toyosu opened on 11 October 2018 on reclaimed land in the bay and took over the wholesale trade: three connected buildings, two for seafood and one for fruit and vegetables, all glass and stainless steel and viewed from purpose-built observation decks above the floor. You watch the selling and the processing from there.

Then Tsukiji, which kept its outer market when the wholesale business left, and still looks and behaves like the old city: narrow lanes, boxes of sea urchin stacked in rows, vendors breaking down whole bluefin, pufferfish alive in tanks. Japan's better chefs still come here daily. Your guide explains the history and why the split happened.

The walk also takes in Namiyoke Shrine, built to keep the waves off ground taken from the sea, and the Honganji temple, whose Indian-influenced 1934 architecture is unlike any other Buddhist building in the country.

Afterwards you can stay in the market and eat at your own pace.

Up to ten travellers, guided in English or Japanese, wheelchair accessible. Everything is on foot, and the guide meets you at Toyosu.

Two things to be clear about: food, drink, transport and entrance fees are not included, and this is not the tuna auction tour, which the operator runs separately at five in the morning.