Ceviche, Causa and a Pisco Sour at Luchito's, Miraflores

Three things, and they are the right three.

Ceviche, because Lima is the reason ceviche exists as it does, and the whole dish is a question of timing: how long the fish sits in the lime before it stops being raw and starts being cooked, and when that stops being an improvement.

Causa de pollo, which is a household dish rather than a restaurant one: yellow potato pressed with lime and aji amarillo, layered with chicken, served cold.

And a pisco sour, which is the country's argument with Chile in a glass.

Two and a half hours, hands on, in a kitchen in Miraflores, run by chefs who cook rather than lecture and who will tell you where each dish came from while you work. The operator calls it Lima's most reviewed class, and the review count does not contradict them.

Fourteen people at most, in English or Spanish, with the ingredients, the cookware, snacks, bottled water, lunch and all fees. Vegetarian options run. Tell them in advance about allergies.

You take the recipes with you, and they are meant to be repeatable at home rather than impressive on the day.