Frittatina at a Five-Generation Friggitoria, Then the Quartieri

Six tastings and three drinks over three hours, walking from the glass dome of Galleria Umberto I into the Spanish Quarter and back out again. Twelve people at most.

You start under the galleria at a bar that has been feeding Neapolitans since the arcade's grand years: coffee, and a sfogliatella made in the family's own lab, ricotta scented with citrus inside a shell that shatters when you bite it. Then a friggitoria run by the same family for five generations, for the frittatina di pasta. It was invented under the Bourbons out of leftovers, which is the honest origin of most of the food on this walk: bucatini bound with béchamel, breaded, deep-fried, crisp outside and molten in the middle.

Between stops your guide points out Teatro San Carlo, which has been staging opera since 1737 and is the oldest working opera house in Europe, and the Royal Palace, whose facade statues run from the Norman kings to Vittorio Emanuele II.

At a family-run place near Ponte di Tappia you get a street version of Sunday lunch: pasta with organic local ingredients, served with bread so you can do the scarpetta, the mopping-up move the place is named after. Then the Quartieri Spagnoli, where the grid tightens, laundry crosses overhead and grandmothers sit in ground-floor bassi with the door open. Church of San Ferdinando next, the one artists claimed, Baroque to the ceiling.

Lunch proper is a few steps from the opera house, at a spot San Carlo performers have used for decades: caprese, then a Margherita with local wine, then homemade limoncello. Dessert is gelato from a gelateria founded in 1969 that buys its milk and fruit locally and changes flavours with the season.

Stops and tastings shift with the day and the season. The guide works in English. Minimum two guests. Children under four join free but without food.