Margherita, Marinara and Pizza Fritta for Thirty Euros

Three hours, twelve people at most, meeting under the Dante statue on Piazza Dante. The route is built around pizza rather than around street food generally, which is what separates it from the same operator's other Naples walk.

You open with a tarallo on Via dei Tribunali: a baked ring of dough with almonds, lard and black pepper, sold on every corner and eaten mostly without ceremony. Then a frittatina di pasta near Piazza San Gaetano, fried until the outside cracks and the béchamel inside stays soft.

At Piazza San Domenico Maggiore come the two pizzas that matter. The Margherita is tomato, mozzarella, basil and oil. The Marinara is older, has no cheese at all, and is tomato, garlic, oregano and oil on dough. Which of the two a Neapolitan orders says something about them, and eating both in one sitting is the fastest way to understand why.

On Piazzetta Nilo you eat pizza fritta, the same dough deep-fried instead of baked and stuffed with ricotta, salami, mozzarella or tomato. It was born from scarcity and stayed on because it is better than the reason for it.

The walk ends near Santa Chiara with a sfogliatella or a rum-soaked babà and an espresso. Across at least four stops you will have eaten the equivalent of a full meal.

Water is included, plus at least one alcoholic drink for guests over eighteen. The guide works in English and Italian, both during the walk; other languages on request. Guests with severe food allergies cannot be hosted.