Nothing But Salsas, in Tacuba

Salsa is where Mexican cooking actually lives, and this class does nothing else.

That is the right decision. A salsa is four or five ingredients, and everything depends on choices most recipes never mention: raw or charred, boiled or dry-roasted, blended or ground, which chilli and how many, and how long you let it sit. Learn that and a great deal else in this cuisine becomes intelligible.

Two and a half hours, and you make several. Pico de gallo among them, which is the simplest and the hardest to get right.

There is a market first, for the chillies and the tomatoes and everything else, and the class is in Tacuba, which is one of the oldest inhabited parts of Mexico City and not on the tourist route at all.

You eat what you make, with totopos, quesadillas and agua fresca.

Ten people at most, in English, French or Spanish, with all the kitchen equipment.

Prams are fine and service animals allowed. Private transport is not included.