Taralli at Piazza Dante, Pizza a Portafoglio on Tribunali

Three hours, twelve people at most, starting and finishing at the Dante monument on Piazza Dante. By the end you will have eaten the equivalent of a full meal across at least four stops.

The opener is a tarallo: a ring of baked dough with whole almonds pressed into it, lard, and enough black pepper to notice. Naples has been eating them for generations, and they are the snack sold at the seafront kiosks as much as in the bakeries.

Then the frittatina di pasta, near the Basilica dello Spirito Santo on Via Toledo, which is pasta and egg and béchamel bound into a disc and fried. On Via dei Tribunali, one of the three straight Greek roads the city was laid out along, you eat pizza a portafoglio: a full pizza folded into quarters and handed over hot, designed to be eaten standing up with one hand.

A plate of pasta with Neapolitan ragù follows, the sauce that cooks for hours rather than minutes and is a completely different animal from what the word means north of Rome. Dessert is in one of the quieter historic quarters near Santa Chiara: sfogliatella or babà soaked in rum, with an espresso.

Water is included, and at least one alcoholic drink for guests over eighteen. Your guide is a local who works in English and Italian, so expect both languages during the walk. Other languages on request. Moderate fitness is enough. The operator cannot host guests with severe or life-threatening food allergies.