The Guide Is Included, the Food Is Your Choice

This walk is built the other way round from every other one on the list. Anna is a licensed guide and what you pay for is her; the food is not included, and that is deliberate. She takes you to the counters, tells you what each place is known for, and you decide what you actually want and pay for it there. Her own estimate is about fourteen euros a head for the lot, with most single items running one to two euros.

What is on offer along the way: Neapolitan cakes, artisanal gelato, coffee, pizza, mozzarella made with whole buffalo milk, fried street food, taralli, very fresh fish, local cheeses, and a limoncello workshop. You can eat all of it or three things.

The route starts on Via Toledo, goes through Spaccanapoli and the historic centre for the myths and the legends, into the Pignasecca market, then up into the Quartieri Spagnoli among the bassi, the ground-floor one-room apartments that open straight onto the alley, and the Maradona shrines. It comes down to Piazza del Plebiscito for the Gambrinus café, the artists' church, the Royal Palace with its staircase, and Teatro San Carlo, then closes at Galleria Umberto I.

The Veiled Christ, Giuseppe Sanmartino's 1753 marble in the Sansevero Chapel, where the shroud is carved from the same block as the body, is on the route as an optional stop with its own admission.

Twelve travellers at most, in English or Italian, and she will arrange a private departure or a different time on request. Note that the operator describes the walk as around three hours while the booking system lists it as two; confirm the length that applies to your date when you book.