The Pignasecca, the Maradona Mural, and a Toast to the Sky

Three hours with a group of local guides whose stated aim is to get you out of the tourist grid, and whose route does exactly that. Meet at the gate of the Convitto Nazionale on Piazza Dante; your guide carries a red bag.

The first stretch is the Pignasecca market, where the guides work daily and where the tour eats among people doing their shopping rather than beside them. Fried food in a paper cone, mozzarella still wet from the brine, cheese, and the older cuts and bites that most visitor menus quietly drop. There is beer and taralli for the aperitivo, wine along the way, a freshly made pizza, and a lemonade at the end.

Then the Quartieri Spagnoli, up through alleys laid out in the sixteenth century to barrack Spanish troops and never widened since, past laundry lines and balconies, to the Maradona mural on Via Emanuele De Deo. It was painted in 1990, the year after he won Napoli a second scudetto, and the corner has functioned as a shrine ever since. The group stops there properly, and raises a glass.

Galleria Umberto I is seen from outside on the way to the finish on Via Santa Brigida, a few steps from Via Toledo and the metro. Dessert is something the guides say visitors never come across on their own; they do not name it in advance.

Ten travellers at most, in English. Suitable for vegetarians and pescatarians, not for vegan, gluten-free or dairy-free diets. Seats are not guaranteed at every stop. Bring a bottle to refill, since water is not included and the operator is trying to cut plastic.