Two Hours in the Pignasecca, Ending at Scaturchio

Two hours, six food stops and a folded pizza, most of it inside the Pignasecca, the oldest street market in Naples and still the one locals actually shop in. You meet at Piazza Carità, just outside the church of San Liborio.

It opens with a spritz on Via Pasquale Scura, which is how a Neapolitan afternoon usually opens too, then taralli at a historic bakery: crunchy, savoury, almonds and black pepper worked into the dough.

Inside the market you eat the frittatina di pasta, deep-fried with béchamel and pasta packed inside it, and a polpetta al ragù from a family-run deli, the meatball simmered until the sauce goes dark. Then the cuoppo di mare, a paper cone of squid, prawns, anchovies and salmon fried to order beside one of the busiest fish counters in the city, eaten walking.

The folded pizza, cured meats, mozzarella and olives are included too, along with bottled water and the alcohol. Dessert is at Scaturchio, a name Neapolitans will recognise before you finish saying it: sfogliatella, babà or artisanal gelato, with coffee or limoncello.

You finish on Via Pignasecca, a minute from where you started. Up to fifteen travellers, guided in English, Italian, French or Spanish. A vegetarian version is available.