Enmoladas in a Small Kitchen, with Alex and Ale

The operator says outright that this is not a commercial cooking class: it is a visit to somebody's home in Mexico City, with two people who happen to cook very well.

Alex and Ale take you to the San Juan market first, which is the historic centre's gourmet and exotic market, and Alex walks you through what is there: fresh produce, dried chillies, spices, mole mixes and a great deal that has no equivalent anywhere else. A few tastings, then you walk home together.

Three or four dishes at the flat, including a salsa made from scratch. Flautas, tostadas or enmoladas, depending on the season, and mole, the dark chocolate-and-spice sauce that has an intimidating reputation and is more approachable than people expect.

One honest detail, which they publish themselves: the kitchen is small. Preparation happens in the bar area and the kitchen is used for the actual cooking. It works, and it is why this feels like a house rather than a school.

Then everyone sits down and eats what was made, and talks.

Four hours, four people at most, entirely private, in English or Spanish, with the market tour, the class, the meal, alcohol and all fees.

Gratuities are included.

The menu changes with the season. Vegetarian available, and tell them about allergies or preferences at booking.

Hotel pick-up is not included.