La Merced and the Witchcraft Market, with People Raised There

The guides on this tour grew up in these markets. Not near them: in them, selling, helping, buying, eating and celebrating, which is why no two of these tours are the same and why the stalls they take you to are the ones their families use.

La Merced is the second largest market in Mexico City. It is loud, enormous and does not particularly want your attention, and walking it with somebody who knows every corner is the difference between an experience and a headache.

Around eight artisanal antojito stands, freshly squeezed juices, and humble fondas serving tacos and whatever fruit is in season. Between them the tastings add up to a breakfast and a lunch.

Mercado de Sonora comes next, and it is famous for a reason: it is the market for witchcraft and magic. The stalls here sell herbs, remedies and crafts that have nothing to do with food and everything to do with what people in this city still believe.

Mercado de Jamaica is the third and the last. Its halls are where the flowers are, a change of air after Sonora's herbs and remedies, and the tour ends outside the market, where you can pick up an Uber or public transport to wherever you are going next.

Four hours, a group of ten at most, in English. You move between the three markets by Metro and Metrobús, and the fares are not included. Vegetarian options on request.

Comfortable clothes and shoes. Bring a bag that zips. No professional cameras and no pets.

Not recommended if you have a heart condition.